One of the most well known designers of sautoir necklaces was Coco Chanel. She is well known for modern renditions of the earlier Edwardian style in long strands of pearls and “chicklet” necklaces which featured unfoiled rhinestones that were linked together in a long chain line fashion.
The Art Deco period fostered an inevitable progression toward geometric diamond and gem-set sautoirs. Multipurpose adaptability was a feature built into much of the jewelry of the 1920s and 30s and sautoirs were no exception. Often they converted to bracelets, shorter necklaces and head ornaments with interchangeable pendants and tassels that could also be suspended from earrings or another necklace. This feature allowed an individual chameleon-like piece of jewelry to economically and efficiently serve more than one purpose.